The Pro’s Guide To All The Different Types of Eyelash Extensions

With so many types of eyelash extensions available in various curls, lengths, and thicknesses, it can be tricky to know where to start. That’s why we’ve created the ultimate guide to help you choose the perfect curl, length, and style to enhance your eyes and achieve your desired look.

One of my clients once told me, “I just want lashes that look good on me, not someone else’s Instagram.” That’s the beauty of eyelash extensions — no two sets have to look the same.

When you explore different types of lash extensions, every design is shaped by four factors: curl, thickness, length, and style. Think of them as ingredients in a recipe. Mix them differently, and you get a completely new look. The more tailored the approach, the more your artistry stands out — and the happier your clients will be.

Different types of eyelash extension curls, thickness, and lengths chart

When it comes to lash extensions, the application technique makes all the difference. Each method creates a unique effect, from subtle and natural to bold and dramatic. By understanding the most common types of eyelash extensions, you’ll be able to choose the style that best complements your natural lashes, eye shape, and personal preferences.

Classic eyelash extensions

The original lash technique, the classic eyelash extension, involves applying one extension to one natural lash. It’s subtle, elegant, and perfect for clients who say, “I want to look put together without looking like I tried.” The downside? Not ideal for clients with very sparse lashes, since coverage will always mirror their natural lash count.

Classic eyelash extensions, one extension applied to one natural lash

Volume lashes

Here’s where lash artistry really shines. Among the many types of eyelash extensions, volume lashes stand out for their versatility. By hand-making fans of 2–6 ultra-fine lashes, you can create fluffier, fuller looks. Volume lashes are customizable - natural, dramatic, or anything in between - but they do take more skill and time to apply.

Hybrid lashes

The best of both worlds. A mix of classic and volume, hybrids give texture and dimension. Among the various types of eyelash extensions, many clients prefer hybrids because they appear “undone” yet still polished, almost like the lash equivalent of tousled waves.

Hybrid eyelash extensions combining classic and volume fans

Mega volume lashes

Reserved for clients who say, “Go big or go home.” Using 10–20 ultra-thin lashes in each fan, mega volume creates a bold, dense lash line. As one of the most dramatic types of lash extensions, it’s ideal for those seeking maximum impact. Because the lashes are featherlight, retention can still be excellent when applied properly.

Mega volume lashes with 10–20 ultra-fine extensions per fan

Russian volume lashes

Inspired by the dramatic Russian beauty trend, these are structured, dense, and eyeliner-like. They’re created with short, lightweight fans that wrap snugly around the natural lash for great retention. The trade-off? When they shed, the gaps can be more noticeable.

Russian volume lash extensions for a bold, dense look

Wispy lashes

Textured, airy, and Instagram-famous. Wispy sets are built by layering different lengths and adding “spikes” for a strip-lash effect. As one of the trendiest types of eyelash extensions, Wispy volume lashes are fun and playful, but need more frequent refills since the staggered lengths shed unevenly.

Wispy lash extensions with spikes and a textured finish

Express lashes

Perfect for time-poor clients, express lashes are one of the fastest types of lash extensions available. Pre-made fans are applied quickly, often cutting appointment time in half. This method is efficient and convenient, though the results may look less customized compared to handmade volume fans.

>>> Discover more: Discovering 3 Unique Techniques for Applying Pro Made onto Natural Lashes

Express lash extensions using premade fans for faster application

Choosing the right lash style isn’t just about curl, length, or thickness — your eye shape plays an equally important role. By understanding the most common types of eyelash extensions by eye shape, you’ll be able to enhance your features in a way that feels both flattering and unique.

Natural eye

• - Mapping: shorter lengths on the inner corners, gradually increasing towards the outer corners.
• - Effect: soft enhancement, mimics the client’s natural lash growth.
• - Best for: anyone wanting an everyday “mascara but better” look.

Cat eye

• - Mapping: longest lengths at the outer corners, tapering towards the inner corners.
• - Effect: elongates and lifts the eye, giving a sultry, winged finish.
• - Best for: almond, round, or downturned eyes.

Doll / Open eye

• - Mapping: longest lengths in the center, shorter towards the corners.
• - Effect: wide-eyed, youthful, and doll-like.
• - Best for: round or close-set eyes that need balance.

Squirrel eye

• - Mapping: gradual increase in length up to the arch of the brow, then tapering down.
• - Effect: combines the openness of a doll eye with the drama of a cat eye.
• - Best for: close-set eyes or those with lashes that naturally grow downward.

Staggered eye

• - Mapping: alternating short and long lengths across the lash line.
• - Effect: messy, undone, textured — almost editorial.
• - Best for: clients who want a fashion-forward, wispy finish.

Coloured lashes

• - Mapping: mixed in with black lashes or applied as full sets.
• - Effect: adds subtle highlights or bold pops of colour.
• - Best for: adventurous clients or those wanting lashes that match hair colour or makeup style.

Types of lash extensions by eye shape

When choosing lash extensions, the material plays a key role in shaping the overall look, durability, and comfort of the lashes. The three main types of lash extension materials are synthetic, silk, and mink.

Faux mink lashes

Made from mink fur, these lashes are prized for their fine texture and natural appearance. They are lightweight and soft, giving a luxurious, natural finish. However, mink lashes are not cruelty-free, and their use is generally discouraged.

Silk lash extensions

Crafted from a softer, more flexible synthetic material, silk lashes offer a natural-looking sheen and lightweight feel. They provide a comfortable wear and are ideal for clients who want a softer, more natural enhancement.

Synthetic lash extensions

Made from man-made fibers, synthetic lashes are the most affordable option. Known for their consistent size, shape, and curl, they are easy to apply and perfect for clients seeking a bold, dramatic look.

Comparison of faux mink, silk, and synthetic lash extensions

The world of lash extensions is accompanied by its own unique terminology, encompassing terms such as curls, diameters, lengths, and fan styles. Understanding these technical terms is crucial for selecting the right extensions and achieving the desired look. In this section, we’ll break down what all the key lash extension terms mean, so you can make informed decisions for your lashes or clients.

Lash curls and the angle of the eyelash

Did you know the same curl looks different depending on the client’s natural lash angle?

Subtle/Natural Curls

• - I Curl: Almost straight, often used for male clients or ultra-natural looks.
• - J Curl: Gentle lift, best for straight or upward lashes.
• - B Curl: Slightly curlier than J, perfect for inner corners or natural enhancements.

Dramatic Curls

• - C Curl: Popular worldwide, it provides a natural lift and an open-eye effect.
• - CC Curl: A bit curlier than C, adding drama without going overboard.
• - D Curl: Big, bold curl — ideal for downward lashes that need lifting.
• - U Curl: The curliest of all — doll-like, striking, but not suitable for every client.

Lift-Up Curls

• - M Curl: Great for downward lashes, creates a lifted effect.
• - L Curl: Flat base + sharp lift, excellent for hooded eyes.
• - L+ Curl: Similar to L but curlier, designed for extra drama.

>>> Discover more: How to Minimize Lash Adhesive Reactions and Enhance Client Comfort

Lash curl chart showing J Curl, C Curl, D Curl, and L Curl

Choosing lash extension thickness (Diameter)

• 0.03–0.05mm: Best for mega volume.
• 0.06–0.07mm: Russian volume and fluffy sets.
• 0.10mm: Soft classic or light volume.
• 0.15mm: The most popular “natural mascara” thickness.
• 0.18–0.20mm: Bold classics, only for strong natural lashes.

>>> Discover more: Full Set vs Refill: Lash Extension Tips

Eyelash extension thickness comparison: 0.03mm to 0.20mm

Getting the perfect and safe lash extension length

Rule of thumb: don’t exceed 30% longer than the client’s natural lash. Too much length = stress and breakage.

Understanding volume fan weights (2D–20D)

In the world of types of eyelash extensions, volume fans are measured by “D,” which stands for dimension - the number of extensions applied to a single natural lash. For example:

• 2D = 2 extensions per natural lash
• 5D = 5 extensions per natural lash
• 20D = 20 ultra-thin extensions per lash

The thinner the lash diameter, the more lashes you can safely add. For example:

• 0.15mm classic lash ≈ weight of 1 natural lash
• 0.03mm lash ≈ 1/20 the weight of 0.15mm → safe for 20D fans

Proper aftercare is essential to keep your lash extensions looking flawless and lasting longer. Following the right dos and don’ts helps prevent premature shedding, maintain lash health, and ensures your extensions continue to enhance your eyes beautifully.

The Do’s

Initial Care (First 24–48 Hours)

• - Keep lashes dry: Avoid water and steam for the first 24–48 hours to let the adhesive fully cure and strengthen the bond.
• - Sleep on your back: This helps prevent crushing or tangling your new extensions, which can reduce premature shedding.

Daily Aftercare:

• - Cleanse daily: Wash your lashes every day using a lash-safe, oil-free lash cleanser for eyelashes to remove dirt, oil, and makeup. This prevents buildup that can cause infections or early lash loss.
• - Brush gently: Use a clean spoolie to comb and separate your lashes, starting from the middle of the lash line to the tips.
• - Be gentle: Avoid rubbing or tugging your eyes. Pat your face dry instead of rubbing.
• - Use silk pillowcases: A silk or satin pillowcase reduces friction on your lashes while sleeping.
• - Book regular infills: Why are lash refills important? Essential for keeping your extensions looking full and perfectly shaped. Schedule touch-ups every 2–3 weeks to maintain fullness and shape.

The Don’ts

• - Avoid oil-based products: Skip oil-based skincare, makeup, or makeup removers as they can break down the adhesive bond.
• - No waterproof mascara: Waterproof formulas require oil-based removers, which can damage extensions.
• - Limit heat and steam: Avoid prolonged exposure to saunas, hot showers, or hot tubs, as heat and steam can weaken the adhesive.
• - Don’t rub, pull, or pick your lashes: This can cause premature shedding and damage natural lashes.

>>> Discover more: How to Maintain Lash Extensions for Long-Lasting Results: Essential Advanced Tips

Lash extension aftercare: Do's & Don'ts

1. What’s the most popular lash curl in Australia?

The most popular lash curls in Australia are C Curl and D Curl, prized for their natural, versatile lift that complements most eye shapes and creates an open-eyed effect without looking overly dramatic. Striking the perfect balance between subtle and bold, these curls are a favorite choice among both clients and lash artists.

2. Can I get the longest lash extensions possible?

Not always. We’ll only apply lengths that your natural lashes can safely handle. Longer isn’t always better if it risks retention or lash health.

3. What’s the difference between a D and a CC Curl?

Think of CC as a happy middle between C and D. D Curl is more dramatic, while CC gives noticeable lift without going extreme.

4. How do I choose the right style for my eye shape?

To choose the right lash style for your eye shape, start by identifying your eye types - whether they’re almond, round, or hooded. Each eye shape has an ideal “lash map” designed to enhance your natural features and achieve the desired look.

For example, almond or hooded eyes pair perfectly with a cat-eye style. By focusing on longer lashes on the outer corners, this style helps your eyes appear longer and more defined. On the other hand, for a wide-eyed, doll-like effect, a doll-eye style works best, with the longest lashes placed in the centre of the eye.

That’s why trusting a professional lash artist makes all the difference. A skilled lash artist doesn’t just apply lashes, they assess your eye shape, natural lash condition, and personal preferences to create a customised lash map. This ensures your lashes look natural, flattering, and perfectly balanced with your face.

Ready to transform your lashes?

The world of types of eyelash extensions is bigger than most people realize. Whether you’re craving a natural enhancement or full-on mega drama, there’s a lash style designed for you.

Explore our full collection of professional lash supplies at LASHESBYRK and create the sets your clients will rave about.